As mentioned in my "Discover Nepal" blog, here is my blog about our Mardi Himal trek experience. I was very hype on writing this blog and i hope that the resources that i have provided in here would be useful.
This blog contains information about the trek, routes, requirements, weather, best season, food, lodges, teahouses, the do's and don'ts, things to bring, what to expect, my personal experience and the ups and downs during the trek.
A SHORT INTRODUCTION ABOUT MARDI HIMAL
Mardi Himal is located at the east of the ABC (Annapurna Base Camp) and facing front is the Macchapuchhre (Fishtail). Mardi Himal has been open since 2011 and every year, more and more trekkers are beginning to discover it. Mardi Himal is a very peaceful and not very crowded area compare to other major treks in Nepal such as the Everest Base Camp, Annapurna Circuit and ABC (Annapurna Base Camp).. Mardi Himal is surrounded with many beautiful flowers and plants. There are also many buffalos, donkeys, chickens around the trail and yaks/ naks can be seen at the Mardi Himal Upper View Point/ Base Camp.
The highest point of the Mardi Himal trek is at 4,500 meters (Mardi Himal Base Camp). The minimum duration for Mardi Himal trek is 4 days and 6 days being the maximum. There are plenty of camps around the Mardi Himal route that trekkers can stay and also have their meals.
THERE ARE 8 CAMPS IN THE MARDI HIMAL ROUTE:
- Australian Camp (1,650 meters) - Plenty of lodges and teahouses are available in this camp
- Pitam Deurali (2,100 meters) - Plenty of rooms for trekkers to stay and very nice people
- Kokar Forest Camp (2,600 meters) - Plenty of rooms available and nice food
- Babal Dada Low Camp (3,150 meters) - The best view of the Mt Machhapuchhre in the trek
- Middle Camp - More lodges and teahouses are being build and should be ready by next year
- High Camp (3,600 meters) - Limited space but more lodges are being build at the moment
- Base Camp (4,500 meters) - No lodges or teahouses, need to bring your own tents
- Sidding (1,750 meters) - The most beautiful lodge in the Mardi Himal route
WHY MARDI HIMAL
They are a lot of mountains in Nepal but why did we chose Mardi Himal? The reason is very simple, it is because Mardi Himal is probably the newest trek. It is also because we want to have a glimpse of the Annapurna South and the Mt. Machhapuchhre (also known as Fishtail). Machhapuchhre is a holy mountain and no one has ever climb that mountain. Mardi Himal is also not very crowded. It is definitely a perfect place and a good start for our first trek.
HOW TO GET TO MARDI HIMAL
There are 4 options on how to get to Mardi Himal, from booking through an agency to doing it yourself. Do your research to know which of these options suits you best.
OPTION #1 - BOOKING A PACKAGE TOUR THROUGH ONLINE
The good thing about booking your trek online is that it is convenient and everything is arranged accordingly. There are plenty of online trekking agencies for you to choose, which also give you enough time to pick the right one.
Package tours include a set of an itinerary, a mountain guide, porter/s, food, accommodation and permits. Prices start from $700 up to $1,500 per person. Prices also tend to increase during peak season.
However, booking through online can be very expensive. It is the most convenient option but expensive.
OPTION #2 - BOOKING A PACKAGE TOUR IN NEPAL VIA TREKKING AGENCY
Booking a package tour within Nepal is a lot cheaper than booking through online. If you have extra days in Nepal, you may take some time to go and inquire about trekking packages around Pokhara and Kathmandu. Another good thing about this is that you get to talk face to face with the agency yourself and it is much clearer to deal with the trekking details in person. Plus, you will meet your guide in person and to confirm everything before starting your trek.
Package tours include a set of an itinerary, a mountain guide, porter/s, food, accommodation and permits. Prices starts from $500 up to $800 per person. Prices also tends to increase during peak season.
OPTION #3 - BOOKING A MOUNTAIN GUIDE ONLY VIA TREKKING AGENCY
Booking just a mountain guide can save you a lot of money. As the money that you pay for goes directly to your mountain guide and of course a bit of commission to the agency. This is a lot cheaper than getting the package tour. The good thing about this is that you can do the trek your way. For example, making your trek shorter, hence you pay your mountain guide a lot lesser.
However, you will need to find and bargain your own room in the lodges and order your meals during the trek yourself. I mean, this is not hard as communication is quite easy. All the food and drinks menu are all in English and the lodge owners speak fair English. On the other hand, if you treat your guide nicely and if you try to build a good relationship with your guide, then the chances of your guide helping you out during your trek would be likely.
Prices starts from $20 up to $50 per day, depending on how experienced your guide is. Your mountain guide should be paying for their own accommodation and meal throughout the trek. Be sure to discuss this clearly and agree on the terms. Also, make sure that your guide has a proper insurance and it is still valid.
Aside from your guide ffee, there will be an additional charge for getting a trekking permit when booking from a trekking agency. I would really recommend people to try to book their mountain guide from an agency because it is safer and most of the guide are legit. Remember that your guide will be with you for a few days.
OPTION #4 - INDEPENDENT TREKKING
If you are an experienced trekker/ mountaineer, then doing an independent trek to Mardi Himal is possible. This is probably the cheapest option to complete the Mardi Himal trek. You only need to pay for the permits, your insurance, transportations, food, water and accommodation. The trail in Mardi Himal is quite stable and you can ask around the mountain people about the trail in case you are in doubt. Independent trekking allows you to challenge yourself and achieve something. However, there are a few cons doing an independent trekking.
THESE ARE THE CONS OF INDEPENDENT TREKKING
- It is more challenging and the chances of getting lost is high
- It may be harder for you to communicate better without a mountain guide
- There might be some information or updates about the trek that you may not know of
- It is not safe when you are doing it alone
- In case of any accident, nobody is there to help you
HIRING A PORTER
Getting a porter for your trek will be good during the trek The best thing about it is that you don't need to carry your own backpack and you can relax more while trekking. It is less exhausting having somebody carrying your belongings.
Please be reminded that if you are hiring a porter, remember not to put too much stuff in your backpack and don't take advantage of your porter. Try to pack light and be kind to your porter. The price for hiring a porter should be lower than what you are paying for your guide.
But of course, if you are the type who likes challenges and hard work then you shouldn't consider hiring a porter at all. Nothing else feels better than achieving something without the help of anyone unless of course you have a health condition, then taking this challenge is just a bad idea.
WHICH OPTION DID WE CHOOSE?
We chose option #3, which is booking a mountain guide only via trekking agency. Honestly, I think this is the most reasonable and the best value out of all the options. We booked through "Plan Himalaya" and we got this amazing mountain guide. Everything was settled smoothly and professionally.
Chandra, the owner of "Plan Himalaya" is very professional and he took time to meet us before we leave Kathmandu to Pokhara and quickly brief us about the trek. He have also given me advices and information about the Mardi Himal trek over the phone. He helped us arranged our trek and everything went perfectly. I would definitely recommend Plan Himalaya and I will book my next trek with Plan Himalaya again.
Our mountain guide, Kapil is originally from the Mt. Everest Region and he has been a mountain guide for many years. He has plenty of experiences not just in mountain trekking but he also knows a lot about the nature, health, religions and the economy. He is very outgoing, open-minded and professional. I would definitely look for him when I do trekking in Nepal.
HERE ARE THE CONTACTS OF THE AGENCY AND OUR GUIDE IN CASE YOU NEED IT:
TREKKING AGENCY - PLAN HIMALAYA
Website - www.planhimalaya.com
Contact - Mr. Chandra GT (Managing Director & Owner of Plan Himalaya)
Contact number - +977 985 1105516
MOUNTAIN GUIDE - KAPIL MANTHERBU KULU
Contact number - +977 982 3397547 OR +977 984 9501441
Meet our mountain guide, Kapil. He is a very kind and friendly man.
WHAT ARE THE REQUIREMENTS
TREKKING PERMITS
Trekking to Mardi Himal would require you to obtain some permits. You need trekking permits for ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Project) and a TIMS card (Tourism Information Management System). You can easily obtain these permit from any trekking agency and if you have are booking your trek from a trekking agency, then the permits should be already included in your package,
On the other hand, if you are going for an independent trekking. Trekking permits are also available at the Nepal Tourism Board official offices in Pokhara and Kathmandu
If you have hire your own mountain guide, he/ she can help you to arrange your trekking permits.
GET AN INSURANCE FOR YOUR TREK
it is highly recommended to buy an insurance for your trek. You should find an insurance that can cover you up for 5000 meters above sea level, if you are doing the Mardi Himal trek.
I got my insurance at World Nomads. The price is reasonable and it covers emergency evacuation, medical insurance, travel insurance and many others. I would really highly recommend World Nomads as it is worldwide and one of the best insurance for trekking in the world.
Click this link "World Nomads" to find out more about the packages.
PHYSICAL & MENTALLY PREPARED
There is no need to be super fit in order to do this trek. I would say, you should just be fit enough to do it - No heart conditions and if you don't get fatigue very easily. If you also suffer from a regular stomach ache, then you should consider seeing your doctor to see if he/ she can prescribe with some pills to avoid any diarhhea.
You should also be mentally prepared for this trek as the trek last for 4 to 6 days. The weather might weaken your body and mind or the food might upset your tummy and affects your mood. If you are not used to being around nature/ forest/ mountain area, then this may require you some time to adapt to it.
It is important to know if you are really prepared for all the things you will have to encounter during your trek, so you will be fully aware and prepared for it in case some circumstances comes up.
DO's AND DON'Ts
Even though you are going to be in the mountain area, there are something that you must know about the Do's and Don'ts. It is good to be aware, so you can avoid offending anybody just in case.
DO'S
- Greet everyone you meet in the trek
- Be friendly to your fellow trekkers and try to help when you can
- Safety always comes first! If you feel like you are unwell, take a break for a while
- Only order sufficient amount of food that you can finish
- Turn off the electricity in your room whenever you don't need it
- Drink Ginger Lemon Tea and Garlic Soup to avoid having altitude sickness
- Take care of the nature, do not destroy them
- Have plenty of rest and sleep before trekking
- Have a good breakfast before starting your trek
- Chat with your mountain guide and get to know him/her better
- Always wash your hands and mouth before eating your meal
- Close your door and windows at all times to avoid having any insects (moths, butterflies, flies) to come in your room especially at night time.
DON'TS
- No PDA (Public Display Affection), this is strictly prohibited and should be respected
- Do not throw rubbish anywhere in the mountain/ forest
- Do not shout and talk too loudly, contain your volume
- Do not go trekking with an empty stomach
- Do not waste food and do not order too much food when you can't finish it
- Do not bring a lot of things. The ideal weight for one backpack should be no more than 10kg.
- Do not consume anything unusual. Trust me you do not want to trek with an upset stomach.
- Do not waste electricity, try to save as much as you can
- Do not swear too openly, try to swear in your mind
- Do not bargain for something unrealistic
- Do not harm any animals, try to conserve them or just leave them alone
- Do not drink water from the tap, only drink from a water bottle or boiled water
WHEN IS BEST TIME TO GO TREKKING TO MARDI HIMAL
Knowing when is the best time to do the Mardi Himal trek is also important as your entire trek will depends on how good the season is. If you are not aware of when is the best time to go, your trekking trip might end up into a disaster.
FIRST BEST SEASON - OCTOBER TO EARLY DECEMBER
October to early December are the best season to go trekking to Mardi Himal as the skies are clear during these months. This is also considered as the busiest months and peak season in Mardi Himal. As October is the start of the Autumn season, the weather will be chill and you can experience a lot leaves falling down from the trees. November to December will be the coldest months and there is a possibility that some trail may be covered with snows, which will make it hard to trek.
SECOND BEST SEASON - FEBRUARY TO APRIL
February to April will be the second best season to go trekking to Mardi Himal. Around this time the dry season is almost over and it is not super cold anymore. The snows by then will be gone and the trail will be easier to trek.
THIRD BEST SEASON - MAY TO JUNE
May to June will be the third best season to go trekking to Mardi Himal. It is the summer season and if you enjoy the sun, then this is probably the best time for you to go. Take note that by June, it will be the pre-monsoon season and occasional rain may happen during the trek. On the other hand, flowers are starting to bloom beautifully during these months.
NON-PEAK SEASON - JUNE TO EARLY SEPTEMBER
June to early September will be the non-peak season to go trekking to Mardi Himal. The reason why it is the non-peak season is because this time around is the monsoon season. The chances of rain and thunderstorms are very likely and very high during this period. Also, this is also the time that leeches comes out as it is the wet season. Remember to wear long trekking pants, long sleeves, long socks and wear ankle trekking boots to avoid those tiny teeny leeches to get into your skin.
THE LODGES/ TEAHOUSES
The lodges and teahouses around the Mardi Himal route are very basic and simple. The mountain people are very friendly and welcoming. As you enter a teahouse, you will automatically feel at home. Staying at the teahouse and lodges is very laid back and relaxing. I also felt that time is actually slower in the mountain area.
FOOD AND DRINKS
Both food and drinks are available in the teahouses. There are quite a lot of food selection in the menu - both meat and vegetarian options are available. The food are quite delicious and the portions are big. I find the vegetables very fresh as every teahouses grow their own crops. The prices for both food and drinks increases as you get higher to the top.
ACCOMMODATION
The rooms in the lodges are very simple and decent looking. Most of the rooms are made from woods or stones. Every room has a decent mattress with nice bed sheets and pillows. Small rooms (good for 2 people) and big rooms (good for 4-6 people) are available in most of the lodges. However, trekkers will need to share the toilet and most of the lodges only have 1 toilet available to use. There is, of course, a place for you to wash but there is no hot water, so that means you will have to wash with cold water. Hot water is available too but you will just need to ask the owners/ staff to boil you some hot water. There may be some extra charges for that.
WHAT TO EXPECT DURING THE TREK
It is important to know what to expect before starting your trek. It is a must that you are aware of the possible circumstances you might experience during your trek.
THE WEATHER
As we all know that the weather is very unpredictable and it changes all the time. Make sure to have your raincoat packed in your backpack and as well as jackets/ ponchos, thick socks, legs warmer and beanie/cap to protect yourself from the cold weather. Even though you are going to trek during the hot season, the weather in the mountain is different. The higher you get, the colder it gets.
THE LEECHES, BEES AND OTHER FLYING INSECTS
During wet season/ monsoon time, there will be plenty of rain coming down, which means there will be a lot of leeches. This is the prime time for leeches to come out and find some people to hang on and have a taste of their blood. The good news is that leeches have their weakness too! You can throw some salt at them whenever they are on your skin. Another way to avoid those annoying leeches to get onto your skin is to wear something tight and cover up your ankles - wear ankle trekking boots, long sleeves, long pants and long socks.
There are also some bees and other flying insects. They are super annoying and they are just everywhere you go! Well, except when it is raining but once the sun's out then they are also out. As much as you hate them and their annoying buzzing sounds, you shouldn't really do anything to them. Do not try to fight with them or even try to hit them with something. Just simply leave them be and continue walking as if like they don't exist.
THE DONKEYS AND BUFFALOS FOOTSTEPS
During the wet season, the trail will be very wet and muddy, which means the donkeys and buffalos will definitely ruin and make the way even more complicated to walk. It is quite difficult for us to get through the muddy paths. We had to find and make our own way to get through it. Just be careful and try not to fall in those muds.
POSSIBLE SICKNESS (ALTITUDE SICKNESS, FEVER, COLD, DIARHHEA)
Yes! This should be included in your top priority as staying healthy during your trek is a must because once you start to feel ill, then it is quite impossible to proceed to your trek. You should always watch out for any a headache or if you are feeling a bit of nausea, even a minor headache. When you feel that you are having any symptoms, then you should take some pills right away to eliminate any altitude sickness, headache or fever. Taking ginger lemon tea and drinking garlic soup could also help you a lot.
MEAT SHORTAGE IN TEAHOUSES
For some unforeseen events, meat shortage may be possible around the mountain area while you are trekking. Running out of chickens and buffalos meat is possible especially during the non-peak season. On the other hand, there are vegetables and canned Tuna available if there is no meat available. Trying to be a vegetarian for a few days doesn't sound that bad.
WHAT TO BRING WHEN TREKKING
In case you are wondering what you really need to bring when trekking. Here's a guideline for you to have an idea on what to bring and what not to bring,
Take note that this is a "backpack travel", so trying to minimise your belongings would help you a lot while trekking.
"Light packing should be always in your mind!"
ESSENTIAL THINGS TO BRING WHEN TREKKING
- Trekking Pants
- T-Shirts, Long Sleeves
- A set of sleeping clothes (use only for the sleeping time)
- Quick-dry towel for body washing
- Towel for sweat
- Underwear
- Sports Bra/ Bralette (for girls)
- Waterproof and Windproof jacket
- Raincoat (get the one that can cover your backpack as well)
- Trekking poles/ sticks
- Socks (bring some thick and some thin socks with you)
- Trekking shoes (better get ankled trekking boots to avoid leeches and sprains)
- Slippers or Crocs
- Sunglasses (with a good UV protection)
- Cap (getting a waterproof cap would be ideal - for sweats and in case of rain)
- Medicine kit (tablets for cold and fever, Betadine, band-aids)
- Toiletries (soap, shampoo, deodorant, powder, cologne, alcohol, mosquito repellent, comb)
- Sunblock lotion
- Tissues and wet tissues
- Flashlight/ Torchlight/ Headlight (bring some spare batteries)
- A travel journal or a small notebook and a pen (to write down your travel diaries)
- Plastic bags (for putting rubbish)
- Camera and charger
- Adaptors (for charging)
- Some protein bars/ energy bars/ Digestives (for snacks)
- Trekking map
- Hand gloves (if you have sensitive/ soft skin)
OTHER THINGS TO BRING WHEN TREKKING (OPTIONAL)
- Playing cards (for pass time and free time)
- Books to read when not trekking
- Bum bag (to put all your important stuff like phone, wallet, passport, etc)
- Water bottle (1L) or you may simply re-use a plastic water bottle to refill water
- Duct tape (in case any of your stuff breaks)
- Karabiners (for hanging wet cloths)
- Padlocks (to lock away your bags, but most rooms in the lodges have locks already)
- Shaver (It's not a long trek, so I'm sure you can let it grow a bit more)
- Water purification tablets (in case you want to purify your own water)
- Laundry powder (for washing of clothes/ underwear)
THINGS YOU DO NOT NEED TO BRING
- Hair dryer
- Your whole make-up and cosmetic sets (I mean you're only trekking!)
- Ipad/ Laptop (you are there for nature and don't let electronics get in the way)
- Pillow, blankets (the lodges will provide, so there's no need for that)
- Kitchen utensils (the teahouses will provide)
- Pieces of jewelry/ accessories (you don't really need that)
WHERE TO BUY YOUR TREKKING EQUIPMENT
Yes! Don't forget to add this to your list. People often forget the simple things like making a checklist of what equipment you need to bring for trekking. Find a time to do a shopping checklist first to see what you already have and what you are missing.
Don't buy cheap quality equipment, especially when buying some trekking poles, jackets, trekking shoes, backpack and safety/ medicine kits. Remember that buying cheap quality would only bring you some problems and not solutions. There are no trekking shops in the mountain areas, so make sure that you got everything ready before starting your trek.
BUYING TREKKING EQUIPMENT IN YOUR HOME COUNTRY OR ONLINE SHOP
Buying your trekking equipment directly in your home country or online shop should be a good idea. It gives you enough time to think about what you need and what you are missing. If you are the type who likes everything to be in order and ready to go, then this is definitely what you should do.
BUYING TREKKING EQUIPMENT IN NEPAL
There are plenty of trekking shops in Nepal. As Nepal is filled with mountains, it is very possible that you can find all the equipment you need for trekking anywhere in Nepal, except the mountain area. Buying your equipment in Nepal could be a lot cheaper and in nice quality too.
WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK DURING THE TREK
Knowing what to eat and drink can guarantee you a healthy and comfortable trekking endeavour. You need to watch out what you eat and drink while trekking as if you don't take good care of your diet then your trip might end up horribly. Trust me, you do not want to upset your stomach and having that while trekking in the mountain is not a good thing.
HERE ARE SOME TIPS ON HOW TO EAT & DRINK PROPERLY:
WHAT TO EAT AND NOT TO EAT
- Eat a lot of greens and vegetables
- Eat chicken for protein
- Don't eat too spicy food (especially if you are not used to it)
- Don't eat cheese (if you are suffering from Lactose Intolerant)
- Eat energy bars and Digestives for snacks
- Don't skip any meal, eat 4 times a day (Breakfast, Lunch, Tea time and Dinner)
- Eat more during Breakfast time
WHAT TO DRINK AND NOT TO DRINK
- Drink garlic soup to avoid altitude sickness
- Drink Ginger Tea/ Ginger Lemon Tea/ Honey Ginger Lemon Tea to avoid altitude sickness
- Drink plenty of water (only drink from water bottle or boiled water)
- Never drink water from the tap
- Drink some vitamins to avoid any possible cold
- Drink Ibuprofen (if you are feeling sick due to altitude sickness)
- Try to avoid drinking any alcohol/ beers to avoid any possible hangover or headache
MARDI HIMAL TREK DIARIES
During our trek, I have written down things we did during our trek and the circumstances we had to face while trekking. We trekk for 6 days and I made sure that I wrote down all the details during this unforgettable experience so that I will be able to share it to people.
TREK DAY 1 - NOT A LONG TREK BUT A GREAT START
On our first trekking day, we left our hotel at 7:00am. We rented a taxi to bring us to Kande, where we start our trek. We ate our breakfast while we were in the car as we didn't had any time to eat our breakfast in the hotel. The car ride took us 1.5 hour to reach Kande.
Left - In the car while admiring the Mt Machhapuchhre view
Right - Mt Machhapuchhre
When we started our trek, we were already feeling very excited. The weather seems very nice and clear. We met this male dog on our way and he followed and sort of guided us for hours. We decided to name him Blackie, the dog guide.
Meet our dog guide, Blackie
We stopped at Australian Camp and Pothana after 2 hours and we submitted our permits at the registration area. Yes, trekking permits are required when trekking Mardi Himal. Please refer back to "What are the requirements?" to know more about it. Australian Camp was named after the Australian mountaineers arrived the camp area. It has plenty of lodges and teahouses. The camp looks nice and decent.
Australian Camp
Registration are at Pothana
After the registration, we continued to hike up to PItam Deurali for 1.5 hours. The trail was very stable and we saw a lot of plants and flowers. It was such a beautiful day for trekking. When we finally arrived at PItam Deurali, we stayed at "Trekkers Inn-Lodge". We were the only guest at that time as it is not the peak season yet. We occupy a room with a dining table outside the room.
The lodge owners are very welcoming and very nice people. We got to go inside their kitchen and watch them cook our meal live in action. Thanks to our mountain guide, Kapil as he happen to have a very good relationship with the lodge owners. The food was very delicious and fresh.
Although, we didn't trek for long hours today but it was a great start. I thought to myself that we will definitely be trekking for longer hours in the next 5 days. Today was a relaxing trek and we perfectly enjoyed it.
Trekking Route (in order) - Kande, Australian Camp, Pothana, PItam Deurali
Total hours of trekking - 3.5 hours
Total hours of car ride - 1.5 hour
Highest Altitude - PItam Deurali (2,100 meters)
Overnight stay at Lodge/ Teahouse - Trekkers Inn-Lodge (Deurali)
TREK DAY 2 - A LONG WAY UP TO LOW CAMP
On our day 2, we wake up early to start our trek to Forest Camp at 7:00am. We have been told by our mountain guide, Kapil that there is no camp around the forest area, which normally take around 4-5 hours to reach the Forest Camp. We had packed some energy bars, so we can eat that when we get hungry. There are many different types of plants and flowers around the forest and Kapil was very generous to share us his knowledge about the plants and flowers we saw on our way.
Left - Direction to start trek to Forest Camp from Deurali
Middle - Small pond around the forest
Right - More uphill
After that exhausting and dry forest trail, we finally arrived at the Forest Camp after 5 hours. We had our lunch in one of the teahouse. There are plenty of rooms available in the lodges and it seems like Forest Camp is where most trekkers go for overnight stay. There was no meat available, so we ordered all vegetables dishes. It's not really a big deal for me, since I love eating vegetables but I can see that Ryan wasn't very happy as he is a meaty person. But the food were delicious and that was the best lunch we had so far.
The Forest Camp
We continued our trek at around 1:30pm. The trail started off well, a bit of steep and muds. Then suddenly rain started pouring. We all thought it's just a small rain but it's actually getting heavier and we struggled real hard. While trekking and suffering at the same time, we met some tiny sticky creatures, the leeches! There are everywhere around our raincoats, pants and shoes. This is our first time encountering these tiny little creatures and we definitely dislike them. We stopped over at the Rest Camp to cool down for a bit and wait till the rain slow down. The camp is very small and there is no lodges, mainly only for resting for trekkers, guides and mountain people.
As soon as the rain has settle down a bit, we continued our trek to Low Camp. It was very challenging ascending to Low Camp. It is very muddy and slippery. Our shoes are all wet and full of muds in and out and leeches kept biting and drinking our blood on our ankles. We were all tired and we just want everything to be over.
After trekking for 4 hours, we finally arrived at the Low Camp. We quickly settle down into our rooms. We dry and wash ourselves. We had to wash our shoes with freezing cold water because our shoes was very muddy. The temperature at the Low Camp obviously dropped especially it was raining. It felt like it was 10 degrees up there.
Hotel Machhapuchhre
Trekking Route (in order) - Pitam Deurali, Forest Camp, Rest Camp, Low Camp
Total hours of trekking - 9 hours
Highest Altitude - Low Camp (3,150 meters)
Overnight stay at Lodge/ Teahouse - Hotel Machhapucchre (Low Camp)
TREK DAY 3 - ALL IS WELL UNTIL WE START TO ASCEND TO HIGH CAMP
On our day 3, we woke up very early to have our breakfast. The sky was very clear and we were fortunate enough to have seen the Mt Machhapuchhre in clear view while having our breakfast. It was the best breakfast experience ever!
We left Low Camp at 8:00am sharp and we ascend up to Middle Camp first. The trail was stable and not very muddy. When we arrived at the Middle Camp, we took some time to take pictures with the spectacular "bed of clouds" view. The sky was very clear and nice. The phone and internet connection at the Middle Camp is quite stable, so I took some time check my messages and update my family and friends back in Hong Kong about our whereabouts. There are also a few lodges being build and it should be ready by early next year as Mardi Himal has been attracting more and more people.
"Bed of Clouds"
Middle Camp
On our way to High Camp
On our way up to High Camp, the trail started steep followed by plenty more of steep trail. It was challenging and I actually slipped once because I stepped onto some clay soil. I swear, those clays are traitors! Do not step on those! We have also seen plenty of buffalo and they stopped whatever they were doing and was just staring at us. The buffalos in the mountains are not very used to people and seeing them frightens them.
Everything was going well until suddenly out of nowhere, some raindrops started pouring down. Everything happened very quickly but we manage to get our raincoats out just in time. It's a shame how we were just 30 minutes away to the High Camp and it was a pity that we all had to experience getting wet again and of course we had to deal with the leeches again. The trail are muddy and slippery once again.
When we finally arrived at the High Camp, we saw some teahouses and lodges being build. I have a feeling that Mardi Himal will soon be filled with trekkers. We quickly settle down into our room and dry ourselves while our lunch meal are being prepared. As the rain didn't stop, we decided to postpone our plan to ascend Upper Viewpoint in the next morning.
Trekking Route (in order) - Low Camp, Middle Camp, High Camp
Total hours of trekking - 4 hours
Highest Altitude - High Camp (3,600 meters)
Overnight stay at Lodge/ Teahouse - Hotel Trekkers Paradise
TREK DAY 4 - ANOTHER RAINY AND FOGGY DAY AT HIGH CAMP
On our day 4, we woke up at 4:30am and it was still pouring outside. We were planning to ascend to Upper Viewpoint but the weather was just really bad. The rain and fog are just surreal. It rained all morning till afternoon. We were somehow loosing hope but we still decided to stay one more night at High Camp and plan to go to Upper Viewpoint the next morning.
So, we spent the whole afternoon at High Camp in our room and at the dining hall. We played cards game and chat around. The rain somehow stopped for some time, so we walked around and hike up a bit for 30 minutes. Then, the rain came back! It comes and it goes.
Left - Inside our room, just chilling and resting
Middle - Directions at High Camp
Right - It's going to be a long way up to Upper Viewpoint
We met a few trekkers who manage to get to the Upper Viewpoint. We asked about how the trek went and as expected, there was no view. It was all fogs and the weather didn't really cooperate. However, they had a rare Yak farm experience, which made their trek a bit better in spite of the rain and fogs. It's good to know that there's something else good in there.
Trekking Route - High Camp
Total hours of trekking - 30 minutes
Highest Altitude - High Camp (3,600 meters)
Overnight stay at Lodge/ Teahouse - Hotel Trekkers Paradise
TREK DAY 5 - FINALLY CONQUERED OUR QUEST
On our day 5, we wake up super early at 4:00am and our guide, Kapil went to check out the weather situation and he came back with a great news that we can head on to Upper Viewpoint. We left High Camp at 5:00am. It was still very dark and we have to use our torchlights and headlights in order for us to see, of course! It was very cold and a bit windy but we warmed up after some time. While ascending, the weather started to get clear followed by a few fogs. It was drizzling a bit but not too extreme.
We reached Upper Viewpoint after 2.5 hours and out of nowhere the sky became foggy again. We still try to head on further at the Viewpoint. We waited for some time. We can see that the fogs are eliminating but then some more fogs are on its way.
While waiting for our luck, we stayed at the Yak farm and drank some fresh warm yak milk. It was a good experience and this is our first time seeing and being close to the yaks and naks. Yaks are male yaks while Naks are female yaks. I'm not so sure why people call it yak milk, i guess it's because it's a lot easier for people to say it,
After waiting for some time, we decided to head down to High Camp before the weather worsen. Although, we didn't get to see what we came for, which is the Annapurna South and Mt Machhapuchhre view, but at least we reached the top at 4,200 meters above sea level and the breakfast at Low Camp with the breathtaking Mt Machhapuchhre view are already good enough. There is always a next time. We would definitely look for a better season when the sky are much clearer. We manage to see the Annapurna Base Camp but it was still covered with some clouds and it was pointless to try to take a picture of it. There is always a next time.
Descending back to High Camp is very challenging. The trail are steep and plenty of rocks and stones. Most of the big rocks are actually moving when we step onto it. There were times that I though I would fall but Thank God none of us did. As soon as we arrived at the High Camp, we packed our belongings, had a quick breakfast/ lunch and descend to Low Camp.
It was still drizzling when we left High Camp and it was very muddy everywhere. Everything is wet and slippery. The trail are harder to cross and we had to take more time to find another path that is safe to walk. It was horrible to be honest. We felt very dirty and we just didn't care about those muds getting into our shoes, all we wanted is to not pay too much attention on the muds but to just finish the trek. We had enough of rain and being wet for 4 days straight. The tiny and annoying leeches are of course in our way and it didn't failed to spoil our mood even more. But this this time we had our weapon, some salts. Yes, leeches are afraid of salts and they become weak after splashing them with some salt.
After 3 hours of descending, we finally arrived at the Low Camp and as usual, we cleaned ourselves up and we took some rest as we are super exhausted. It was a long day and a wet one too.
Trekking Route (in order) - Upper View Point, High Camp, Middle Camp, Low Camp
Total hours of trekking - 6.5 hours
Highest Altitude - Upper View Point (4,200 meters)
Overnight stay at Lodge/ Teahouse - Hotel Machhapuchhre (Low Camp)
TREK DAY 6 - LAST GOODBYE AND A TOUGH DESCEND
On our day 6, we woke up at 7:00am, we had a quick wash up and packed up all of our belongings. It was our last breakfast at Low Camp with the Mt Machhapuchhre view. We had apple pancakes and ginger lemon tea for breakfast. I'd say this is by far the best apple pancake I ever had in my life.
We left Low Camp by 8:00am and started our trek down to Sidding. The trail was a bit dry, since the rain had already stopped. There are still some trail that are a bit muddy. We were so glad that the leeches had finally stop attacking us. Unfortunately, we had encountered many donkeys in the way. They were delivering supplies up to the high camps. They totally ruined the trail, while making it extra harder for us to pass without stepping into muds. Anyways, we still made it and found our way down. Descending down is not very easy. It is actually quite tough and tiring. The donkeys made our trek longer because we need to find another way to walk. It feels like we have been descending forever.
After 3 hours of trekking, we finally reach Sidding. We saw a lot of donkeys assembling and ready to hike up to the high camps to deliver supplies, such hardworking donkeys! The lodge in Sidding is probably the most beautiful and modern looking lodge in the Mardi Himal route and they have a decent toilet. We had our lunch at "Hotel Trekker's Home Nepal" while waiting for our jeep ride to bring us back to Pokhara.
Left - The most beautiful lodge in the Mardi Himal route
Right - Entering our last stop in the Mardi Himal route
Left - Donkeys assembling
Right - Some buffalos dipping in the water
We left Sidding at 2:00pm and we arrived to our hotel in Pokhara after 3 hours. The ride was super bumpy and the roads were not very even, especially coming down from the hill. We had some mini adrenaline rush while inside the jeep. It was a rare experience and it was quite fun quite frankly. We also passed by the Mardi River. The water drop from the Mt Machhapuchhre. The jeep ride cost us 10,000 NPR but we had other people inside the car, so we sort of shared the cost. We paid 3,500 NPR for 2 people.
Left - Some waterfalls while we were inside the jeep
Right - The Mardi River
Right after we arrived at our hotel, we quickly freshen up. I think I spent more than 30 minutes in the bathroom. I have never felt this good taking shower before. Just imagine 6 days of no proper shower. We also unpack our belongings and we bring out our dirty clothes for laundry. After that, we went to the Lakeside to celebrate for conquering our Mardi Himal trek together with our awesome mountain guide/ friend, Kapil.
Trekking/ Jeepney Route (in order) - Low Camp, Sidding, Lumre, Pokhara
Total hours of trekking - 3 hours
Total hours of jeepney ride - 3 hours
A LIST OF OUR COST IN THE MARDI HIMAL TREK
* The prices indicated below was during September 2017 and it is good for 2 people
- Mountain guide and trekking permits via Plan Himalaya = $240
- Food and drinks at teahouses = 20,920 NPR
- Lodges (overnight stay for 5 nights) = 2,540 NPR
- Taxi ride from Pokhara to Phedi = 2,000 NPR
- Jeepney ride from Sidding to Pokhara = 3,500 NPR
- Tips for our mountain guide = 5,000 NPR
- Tourist Bus from Kathmandu-Pokhara-Kathmandu = $28 (roundtrip)
Total in US Dollars = $268
Total in Nepalese Rupees = 33,960 NPR
Total Spending (for 2 people) = 60,760 NPR ($608 US Dollars)
We were genuinely happy with what we have spent. The money that we spent was super worth it and this is probably where most of my travel savings will be placed on.
THE PRO'S AND CON'S ABOUT MARDI HIMAL TREK
There are some good things and some bad things during our Mardi Himal trek. Well, there is no such thing as perfect isn't it? Every goal comes with a price, hence the consequences.
HERE IS A SUMMARISED LIST OF THE PROS AND CONS OF OUR AND SOME OTHER TREKKERS' EXPERIENCES IN THE MARDI HIMAL TREK:
PROS
- The teahouses and lodges are in good shape
- The food is made freshly and the teahouse owners grow their own vegetables
- You can charge your electronics in some of the lodges
- There is WIFI available in some lodges but connection might be limited and slow
- You get to spend more time and get to know the nature even better
- There is hot water available for shower, all you need to do is ask the owners
- You get to sleep early and wake up early for 4-6 days straight
- An opportunity to meet new people and socialise
- Good for meditating
CONS
- There are no internet and mobile connection starting from the Low Camp area
- There is only 1 toilet room in every lodges/ teahouses, so there might be some queue at times
- The chances of having to deal with leeches during wet and rainy season is very high
- The muds and unstable trail while trekking
- Time is slower and you need to find things to do for pass time
- It is very cold especially during night time at the High Camp
- The weight of your backpack stays the same throughout your trek (if you don't have any porter). It doesn't get any lighter.
- You may need to wear your clothes repeatedly (if you are packing light and smart)
Overall, my Mardi Himal and my first trekking experience has been great and I will always cherish these memories with me. The things I have gone through during the trek are not something I can find in my daily life. I challenge myself and even trained very hard at the gym to make myself fit enough. I did what I thought I couldn't. I proved to myself that I am capable and strong enough to take on this challenge. After this once in a lifetime experience, I will surely be craving for more.
If you have any questions, feel free to comment below or send me an email. I will be more than happy to help.
WHAT'S NEXT?
This is a very good question, what's next after conquering the Mardi Himal trek? As this is my first trekking experience, in which it turns out very well. Sure, I had some bad experiences too during the trek but i'm not going to let this stop me from doing what I love to do.
My next trek would probably be still in Nepal. Why? I fell in love with Nepal and I want to see more of its beauty. I am thinking of trekking to Annapurna Base Camp or Everest Base Camp next. Let's see how things goes. Stay tune!
Yours Truly,
Michelle Chan
