A Secret Prison in Cambodia

As promised from my blog on "Discover Cambodia" , this is a blog about Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, also known as the S21 Prison. Now the reason why I decided to make a blog about this is that I find this incident the most horrific and barbaric genocide I have ever read in history in my 26 years. 

This blog contains essential information about the secret Prison and some stories that I had learned from the audio guide tour when I visited Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum & The Cheoung Ek Killing Fields and based on my self-research, courtesy of the internet. Some images and statements are written and posted in this blog may be sensitive to some people. This is the stories of the 14,000 victims in the hands of the Khmer Rouge. These victims may have died brutally, but their deaths will not be left forgotten. It will forever stay in history.  

THE KHMER ROUGE

Khmer Rouge is a communist party in Cambodia, who took control of Cambodia on April 17, 1975, until 1979. The Khmer Rouge wanted to transform Cambodia into a classless society in which there are no rich and no poor people. Group gatherings are forbidden as this is a sign of plotting a war against the Khmer Rouge. They have forced around 2 million people in Phnom Penh and other cities for some agricultural work and whereas thousands of people had died during the hard labour work through endless work, starvations, beatings or executions. The Khmer Rouge had set up secret prisons, where they captured, brutally tortured and executed thousands of people.

THE S21 PRISON

The Tuol Sleng Genocide, also known as the S21 Prison, used to be a school before it was turned into a secret prison by the Khmer Rouge. The secret Prison was operated for four horrific years, which also means four long years of tortures and executions of mostly innocent people. 

WHO WERE CAPTURED, TORTURED AND KILLED

Most of the people who are brought into the secret Prison are either guilty or innocent and has nothing to do with whatsoever the war that the Khmer Rouge are having during those time. The Khmer Rouge members/ soldiers/ guards or other civilians are also pins pointing at some random people or somebody who may potentially look like a traitor in their eyes. These innocent victims were tricked for a job opportunity. Little did they know that they are being brought into a dark place. While some people were captured because they are traitors, but I guess we will never know who are the real traitors and who is not. You will find out what I meant about the previous sentences I have written as you continue to read this blog.

The image above shows the rules inside the S21 Prison. If the image is a bit small for you to see, then here are the list of the regulations.

1. You must answer accordingly to my questions - Don't turn them away.

2. Don't try to hide the facts by making pretexts this and that you are strictly prohibited to contest me.

3. Don't be fool for you are a chap who dare to thwart the revolution.

4. You must immediately answer my questions without wasting time to reflect.

5. Don't tell me either about your immortalities or the essence of the revolution.

6. While getting lashes or electrification you must not cry at all.

7. Do nothing, sit still and wait for my orders. If there is no order, keep quiet. When I ask you to do something, you must do it right away without protesting.

8. Don't make pretext about Kampuchea Kromin order to hide your secret or traitor.

9. If you don't follow all the above rules, you shall get many lashes of electric wire.

10. If you disobey any point of my regulations you shall get either ten lashes or five shocks of electric discharge.

THE EVIDENCE

PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE PRISONERS

The photographs of the prisoners' headshots and torture photographs were found and discovered by the Vietnamese Army. The prisoners' names were all changed into numbers. In other words, they are no longer identified by their names but by numbers appointed to them instead.

Photographs of the S21 prisoners

TORTURE ROOMS 

There are plenty of torture rooms in the S21 Prison. The torture rooms are used as interrogation rooms as well. The prisoners are tied up and must answer the questions that are being asked by the interrogators. Refusing to answer a question or making up stories will face an extreme and painful torturing. Some torturing method that the interrogators used are electric wires, drownings and some other terrible and inhuman ways.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT USED FOR TORTURING PRISONERS

When S21 Prison was discovered, the remaining of the tools and pieces of equipment for torturing prisoners were recovered as well. The people who have survived this had explained and demonstrated how the equipment works. But I rather not share this as it is very heartbreaking to hear, but if you want to know more about it, you may google it to know more information about their torturing methods.

This is one of the torturing equipments found in S21 Prison. No caption needed, you may use your own interpretation based on the image on the right.

JAIL CELLS

They have built jail cells for the prisoners around the premises. The jail cells are tiny, and by the looks of it, it is just enough for one person to fit very tightly inside the cell. The prisoners were tied up while their faces were covered with a sack and limited hole for them to get some air to breathe. The prisoners are not allowed to speak with any other cellmates or fellow prisoners, they are to remain silent under any circumstances.

Jail cells in S21 Prison. I felt a bit of goose bumps when I enter the room as if like I can feel imagine how the prisoners lived in this tiny jail cell.

CLOTHES OF THE PRISONERS

Plenty of the prisoners clothing was found after the Vietnamese army discovered the prison. The clothes were pilled together in memory of the victims.

MASS GRAVE AT CHEOUNG EK (THE KILLING FIELDS)

Cheoung Ek Killing Fields was known to be the worst mass grave in Cambodia. The reason for this is that there are so many people who have died here. Some victims were buried alive and also the fact that this mass killing was very secretive until the Vietnamese Army finally discovered it. Imagine if they didn't, then more people could have been dead as well.

Mass grave in Cheoung Ek KiIlling Field

RECOVERED PIECES OF BONES AND THE SKULLS

Pieces of bones, teeth and skulls of the prisoners were found buried in the mass grave at the Killing Field as part of the evidence of this barbaric crime. 

WHEN DID THE KILLINGS END

VIETNAM CAME TO RESCUE

In 1979, the S21 Prison was discovered by the Vietnamese Army after four long years of barbaric acts of the Khmer Rouge towards thousands of people. 

THE PUNISHMENT

Most of the remaining leaders of the Khmer Rouge were sentenced to life imprisonment by the ECCC (Extraordinary Chambers in the Courts of Cambodia) for crimes against humanity. Life imprisonment doesn't completely justify what the Khmer Rouge had done to the dead prisoners. I believe that the punishment should be as brutal as what they had caused to the thousand lives of the prisoners. 

HOW MANY PEOPLE SURVIVED IN THE S21 PRISON

There are only seven survivors that are known to have survived the S21 Prison. 7 out of 14,000 victims that is just sick! Three of the survivors are still alive, and they can be seen around the museum. You may have a quick chat with the survivors if you want to. I'm sure they will be more than happy to share their life story back in S21 Prison.

A 16 YEARS OLD BOY WAS RELEASE DUE TO A STRANGER'S SACRIFICE

This story is base on the story that I have heard from the audio guide tour. There was a 16 years old boy who was captured and unaware of what was going on. He had lost his family along the way and was forced to stay with the other prisoners. A kind and a selfless man begged a prison guard to spare the boy. The man insisted "He is too young, please let him go". The man did not stop asking the prison guard until one day, the boy was released, but in return, the prison guard executed the man who had helped, and he sacrificed himself to save the boy. The boy did not know the man's name, but he will forever remember and be grateful to what the man had done for him to live.

VISITING THE TUOL SLENG GENOCIDE MUSEUM (S21 PRISON)

Tuol Sleng was formerly a high school. It was the secret prison held by the Khmer Rouge in 1975-1979. There were about 14,000 people who were imprisoned there with only seven known survivors. There are around 4 buildings in the premises. The Khmer Rouge had turned those 4 buildings as interrogation rooms, torture chambers, jail cells, torture equipments room and many more other barbaric acts. It was discovered by the Vietnamese army in 1979. 

BUILDING A

Building A is the closest to the entrance of the S21 Prison. 

Building A is the very first place prisoners were brought into to have their photographs taken and their information written down. Once they have registered, their names were no longer their names, they were given numbers instead. They were forced to give up whatever belongings they have brought into the prison.

INTERROGATION AND TORTURE ROOM

Soon after they were settled, the prison guards brought the prisoners into the interrogation room where they were forced to talk about their life in detailed and to confess to their sins. The prisoners are not allowed to scream, cry or have any emotions when they are being tortured. Each prisoner was scheduled to be interrogated and tortured at least twice a day and every day, and so on. 

BUILDING B

PHOTOGRAPHS, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT FOR TORTURING

This building was filled with the victim's headshots, photographs of the leader, tortures and dead prisoners due to extreme beatings or starvation. Some equipment for torturing can be seen being displayed around the building with images of how it is used.

BUILDING C

JAIL CELLS

This building was the prisoners' jail cells. If you look closely, the building was covered with metal wires. The metal wires were placed around the whole building so that the prisoners won't attempt to escape.

BUILDING D

MORE PHOTOGRAPHS AND MOVIE ROOMS

You may find more photographs of the prisoners, prison guards, the leaders, executions and other documents in this building. There are two movie rooms for some documentaries clips about the S21 Prison. Please note that there is a scheduled time when you can enter and watch the short films.

Another Khmer Rouge's killing methods as stated on the board,

The Gallows - This pole with cables attached to it had been used for the student to conduct their exercise. The Khmer Rouge utilised this place as interrogation room. The interrogators tied both hands of the prisoners to the back by a rope and lift the prisoners upside down. They did like this until the prisoners lost consciousness. Then they dipped the prisoner's head into a jar of smelly, filthy water, which they normally used as fertiliser for the crops in the terrace outside. By doing so, the victims quickly regain consciousness, and that the interrogators could continue their interrogation.

VISITING THE KILLING FIELDS IN CHEOUNG EK

Cheoung Ek also known as The Killing Fields. After the interrogation, beatings, manipulations and starvation, this is where victims were brought to face their cruel execution. There is an audio guide tour included in the package deal to tour you around to all the sites in the fields and where the people were buried. At the end of the audio tour, The Memorial Stupa will be the last stop where the remains of the victims (The skulls) are preserved and are colour coded by genders and how and what weapons were used to execute the victims. You may pay your respect by lighting a candle or offering some flowers. 

1. TRUCK STOP

The prisoners were tricked by the guards and were told that they are bringing them to a new home while being blindfolded, only to find out that they are not going to last in this world any longer.

As written in the text,

Truck Stop - Here, was the place where a trucks transporting victims to be exterminated form Tuol Sleng Prison and other places in the country, stopped. Trucks would arrive 2 or 3 times a month or every 3 weeks. Each truck held 20 to 30 frightened, blindfolded and silent prisoners. When the trucks arrived, the victims were led directly to be executed at the ditches and pits or were sent to be detained in the darken and gloomy prison nearby. After January 7, 1979, one truck remained, but it has since been taken away.

2. DETENTION AND THE EXECUTIONER'S WORKING SPACE

After transferring the prisoners to the Killing Fields, they were brought into a small hut while being blindfolded, just waiting for their time to get executed. 

As written in the text from Left photo

The Dark and Gloomy Detention - Here, was the place where victims transported from Tuol Sleng and other places in the country were detained. Usually, when the truck arrived, the victims were executed immediately. However, as the number of victims to be executed was increased up to per 300 per day, executioners failed in attempt to kill them within a day. That is why they were detained for execution the next day. The detention was contracted from wood with galvanised steel roof. its wall was built with two layers of flat wood were to darken and also prevent prisoners seeing each other. Unfortunately, the dark and gloomy detention was dismantled in 1979.

As written in the text from Right photo

The Executioners' Working Office - Here, was the place where executioners stationed permanently at Choeung Ek worked. The office as well as the Killing Fields were equipped with electric power which enabled them to conduct executions and to read and sign the rosters that accompanied the victims to the site at the night time.

3. STORAGE ROOM FOR KILLING TOOLS

Before the hut was removed, there used to be a room, where the guards stored their killing tools. 

As written in the text from Left photo

The Killing Tools Storage Room - Here, was the place where the killing told such as shackles, leg irons, a hatchet, knifes hoes, digging hoes, shoves, iron ox, cart axles were stored. This instrument was lost in 1979. The storage room was constructed from wood with a galvanised steel roof.

As written in the text from Right photo

The Chemical Substances Storage Room - Here, was the place where chemical substances such as DDT.. was kept. Executioners scattered these substances over dead bodies of the victims at once after execution. This action had two purposes; Firstly to eliminate the stench from the dead bodies which could potentially raise suspicion among people working near by the Killing Fields and secondly was to kill off victims who were buried alive.

4. THE LAKE

Who could ever thought that this lake was once buried with dead people, most of them were children. 

5. VICTIMS CLOTHING

You may find some clothing laying on the ground just like how they were found when the rescuers have discovered this secret Killing Fields. You may also find some pieces of broken bones left on the ground.

6. VICTIMS BONES AND TEETH

These are the remaining bones and teeth that were found around the Killing Fields. 

7. THE KILLING TREE AND THE MAGIC TREE

The Killing Tree was used for the execution of infants or newborn babies. The Khmer Rouge believed that once their parents were executed, these little ones should be executed too so they won't seek any revenge. What is even more depressing is how they ended their life. The executioners smashed the babies head onto the tree; it is the easiest way to commit an execution according to the audio source. That is just inhuman and barbaric. 

The Magic Tree was installed with a loudspeaker, which they will play loud music whenever they are scheduled to execute a group of prisoners. The purpose for this is that they are avoiding any nearby neighbours to hear the prisoners screams while executing them. Just imagine, the music that was being played at those times was the last music that the prisoners had heard before they die.

Left - The Killing Tree

Right - The Magic Tree

8. MEMORIAL STUPA

This stupa is where all the recovered skulls are placed as a memorial stand for the purpose of remembering this horrific crime. The skulls were divided and colour coded into genders, ages, and what weapons were used during their execution. Since the executioners were saving bullets and may alarm the nearby neighbours, they used weapons to hit the prisoners head once or some even twice and then slits their throat and let them bleed to death.

9. THE MASS GRAVE AROUND THE KILLING FIELDS

Some visitors will leave some flowers, bracelets or notes (donations) as a sign of paying respect for the victims of S21 Prison. 

PERSONAL EXPERIENCE AND THOUGHTS ON THE TOUR

First of all, I would like to share that there are no beyond words that can describe these horrific crimes that were committed by the Khmer Rouge. I have read and studied about The Holocaust held by the Nazis or The Japanese Occupation around Asia in World War II. There are both wrong and horrible. However, the S21 Prison is what I felt the most heartbreaking. I think it's the fact that S21 Prison was kept secret and nobody knows about it for four years, and the hands of their own people implemented it.

I am getting emotional while writing this blog. All of the things I have seen inside the museum and the things I have heard from the recorded audio guide are coming back in my mind as I write this blog. It is indeed hard to explain what I had felt on that day when I visited. It's like I can hear them scream in my mind at some point and imagining how those victims were tortured and executed. I can picture them in my mind, and it is horrible and quite traumatising actually. It is just so cruel.

However, don't get me wrong, I felt blessed to have visited S21 Prison, and I had learned a lot of information during my visit. I would say that reading history through the internet or books are not enough resources. You got to be there, right on that spot to see it with your own eyes. 

HOW TO GET THERE

Getting to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S21 Prison) - The easiest way to get there is by tuk-tuk or private taxi.

Getting to The Cheoung Ek Killing Fields - It is around 30-40 minutes away from the S21 Prison. You may take a tuk-tuk or get a private taxi to get there.

PRICE AND THE OPENING HOURS

TUOL SLENG GENOCIDE MUSEUM (S21 PRISON)

Entrance fee - The fee for S21 Prison is 3 USD per person and add 3 USD for an audio guide, with different types of languages (English, Chinese, French, Spanish, Japanese, Korean, German). A tour guide is available upon request with an additional charge. 

Opening hours - It opens every day from 8:00 am to 5:00 pm.

CHEOUNG EK  KILLING FIELDS

Entrance fee - The fee for the Killing Fields is 6 USD per person with audio guide included, with different languages too.

Opening hours - It opens every day around 8:00 am to 5:00 pm.

I hope you find this blog useful. I try to put as many information as I can in memory of the victims. Hopefully, this horrible thing won't happen anymore. Nobody deserved to have suffered the way the S21 prisoners did and any other victims. 

Yours Truly,

Michelle Chan

Discover Cambodia

I have been longing to visit Cambodia since 2015, and I finally fulfil my dream of visiting this beautiful place after two years (2017). Why Cambodia? I got three reasons to tell you why. First, I like visiting heritage, temple, historic and ancient sites. Second, It has a dark, intriguing and wounded history, in particular, the S21 Prison, that I wished to visit and see the place with my own eyes. Third, I am curious about how Cambodia look like, how are the people there like and how does the food taste. 

Cambodia has been so far one of the best trips that I have experienced, and I would love to share this overwhelming and unforgettable experience with everyone. I have learned so many things, and I have never expected in my million thoughts that Cambodia would touch my heart to the point that I am considering of doing volunteer work in Cambodia one day when I retire, so I can help the poor and educate the children. What can I say, Cambodia has caught my soul and it may catch yours too!

SHORT HISTORY ABOUT CAMBODIA

The Kingdom of Cambodia is a Southeast Asian nation located around Vietnam to the east, Thailand to the northwest and Laos to the north. The capital city of Cambodia is Phnom Penh, and Siem Reap is the access point to Angkor Wat. Cambodians primarily speak Khmer and English as their second language. 

Ever since the fall of Angkor in 1431, the once mighty Khmer Empire has been pillaged by all its neighbours. The French once colonised it in the 19th century, and Cambodia suffered from a massive bomb by the USA in the 1970s. Lastly, the most notoriously barbaric acts of the Khmer Rouge during the civil war in the 1970s. Even up to this day, the Cambodians are still wounded and has been trying to move forward from the past. Many children have suffered poverty and ruined their education, especially during the Khmer Rouge regime. Although Cambodia is slowly developing it is interesting to look back in the past and how much Cambodians has suffered and yet they are still humble, and they are trying their best to hard work as much as they could.

The dishes in Cambodia are commonly known as Traditional Khmer food. Amok (curry) is the most famous dish in Cambodia as it is made by a coconut milk curried dish and less spicy than the ones in Thailand. Lok Lak (cooked Beef) paired with some simple dipping sauce consisting of lime juice, black pepper, lettuce and onion. K'tieu, a noodle soup with meat selection of pork, Beef or seafood with pure spices of lime juice, chill powder, sugar and fish sauce. It is typically served during breakfast. Mangoes or Mangosteen are the main fruit in Cambodia and are super delicious. 

WHAT TO EXPECT IN CAMBODIA

SIGHTSEEING

There are many things to do and many places to visit in Cambodia. The temples and museums are worth a visit, and it can also be rewarding. You may plan your itinerary, or you may also book some tours in which everything will be arranged accordingly. But I would recommend a DIY trip, so you have more freedom to chose your own time and where to go. 

Make sure to do your research before going to Cambodia, especially checking the Dos and Dont's in Cambodia. It is essential that tourist must follow their rules as a sign of showing respect and not being ignorant.

FOOD & DRINK

Traditional Khmer food is delicious and has a lot of spices and vegetables. The food looks quite simple and homemade but never underestimate the looks of it as you may be jumping for joy from what you take a bite on. Just one thing to be careful of if you are not used to spicy food be cautious of the sliced chilli on some of the dishes. If you are not used to eating spicy food and are allergic to chilli, then you should tell the restaurant staff or shop hawker that they shouldn't put any spicy or chilli on your dish. But it wouldn't hurt if you try some of their spicy dishes either, you might end up liking it. 

The ubiquitous drink that you may find everywhere in Cambodia will be the fresh coconut juice, mango juice, sodas and water. Most of the fruit juices are sugarless; at least the ones that I had tried drinking doesn't contain any sugar.

A friendly reminder, never drink water from the tap or the faucet, in case you end up drinking a bit of water while brushing your teeth. Make sure to always drink water only from a water bottle. 

SERVICES & HOSPITALITY

Cambodians are very warm and welcoming. Almost all locals can speak fair English. They try their very best to communicate and accommodate you as much as possible. They will make sure that it will be "worth a visit and worth coming back for" when you are visiting Cambodia. 

WEATHER

Expect scorching and sunny weather in Cambodia, especially during the summer season. The weather may go up from 35-48 degree, especially during March - April, which is the hottest season. The most relaxed season will be between November - January.

Make sure always to bring a towel or tissues and drink plenty of water to protect yourself from the heat. Keeping yourself hydrated is the best thing you can do while enjoying your visit to Cambodia. 

EXPENSES

The prices of food, transportation, accommodation, activities, attractions, clothing and souvenirs in Cambodia are affordable. It is also wise to ask around the locals of how much does transportation for a tuk-tuk, or private taxis typically cost as some drivers may try to overcharge you to earn extra money. Bargaining is widespread in Cambodia and especially when you are in a big group of people but also try to be reasonable when you bargain. 

For further information, It is prevalent to use US Dollars when paying bills as Cambodians prefer and would be charged most of the things, food, attractions, transportation in US Dollars. Using Cambodian Riel bills are optional, but it is not recommendable as Riel bills are quite old, and most people would rather accept US Dollars than Riel. Moreover, trying to exchange your bills to Riel may be a hassle as it may be challenging to find a reliable money exchanger around Cambodia. 

HOW TO GET TO CAMBODIA 

VIA BY PLANE (INTERNATIONAL)

Cambodia is reachable by plane. Some airlines offer a direct flight to Cambodia, both to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap such as Vietnam Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Cathay Airlines, Hong Kong Express, Cebu Pacific, Thai Airways and many more other. While you may also find more complicated connecting flights depending on where you are flying, make sure to book your plane ticket in advance to avoid high ticket cost or unavailable dates or time, especially during peak season. 

VIA BY BUS (FROM THAILAND, LAOS OR VIETNAM)

If you happen to be in Thailand, Laos or Vietnam, you may take a bus service bound to Cambodia (both transporting to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap). Thailand, Laos and Vietnam bound to Phnom Penh or Siem Reap both offer bus ride schedule daily. It is recommended to check their bus schedule and book your ticket in advance just in case and most notably during the peak season.

PHNOM PENH - SIEM REAP (VICE VERSA)

If you are flying a plane bound to Phnom Penh, you may also take a bus to get to Siem Reap via The Grand Ibis (recommended) at around 20-30 USD. Another option is to hire a private taxi with a good and reasonable price of 75-80 USD (5-6 hours), and it is suitable when you are travelling in a group. There are sleeper buses available to get to Siem Reap. It is recommended to book your bus ticket or your private taxi in advance. 

Travelling from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh has the same procedure as what I have mentioned above.

You can try out this restaurant when have a stop-over from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap

WHEN TO VISIT

COOLEST TIME

The most chill time will be from November to January. This is probably the best time to visit Cambodia, especially if you are not a fan of hot sunny weather or who does not fancy sweating, then you should not consider visiting Cambodia during the hottest season. 

HOTTEST TIME

The hottest time will be from March to April. The temperature can go as high as 48 degrees. A piece of friendly advice to everyone, make sure not to wear anything thick, in particular wools, pieces of denim or even leather (No way!). Trust me these are not the right type of clothing you should be wearing on hot sunny weather. 

THE BEST TIME

The best time to go to Cambodia will be of course during the coolest time, which is around November to January. But you should expect a high ticket price and even prices in Cambodia will rise during these peak season. You may also consider going to Cambodia during the "Khmer New Year" in April, which usually falls on the 13th or 14th. The way Cambodian celebrate their new year is by throwing some powders and water guns at each other. It's just like getting a free shower during a hot season. It is fun to watch people getting wet and being wet. 

TRANSPORTATION

TUK TUK

It is easy and convenient to find a tuk-tuk around Cambodia. It can fit around 4-6 people. The drivers will generally charge tourist in US Dollars, and they will name their price, but you can always bargain and name your rate as well but try to be as reasonable as possible when bargaining. Typically, the drivers will charge 1 USD per person, except far away places.

It is also recommended to rent your tuk-tuk for a whole day with a negotiable price. This way, you can do sightseeing more conveniently without having to negotiate with every tuk-tuk drivers each time you take a stop.

PRIVATE TAXI

Private taxis in Cambodia are similar to UBER, you may call for a ride from a phone app, Exnet Taxi Cambodia. The fare price will be base on metres, and these drivers speak fair English and can also accommodate you with tips of what to see, what to do and not to do around Cambodia.

RENT A VAN

It is recommended to rent a van for a whole day when you are travelling in a big group and too far away places so that it will be cheaper and less hassle for everyone. Prices are depending on the time, location and duration of the trip. 

There is a lot of travel agency that can help you to find a van with a driver but make sure that the agency is reliable.

RENT AN E-BIKE (Electronic Bike)

If you like to hit the road by bike, you may rent an e-bike. There are quite a few stops that you can charge your e-bike around the places. Also, note that renting or riding a motorbike are not recommended for tourist as per the government. The reason for this is that the roads in Cambodia are not fully developed yet, and it may cost road accident. So always be safe and drive safely with an e-bike. 

DOs & DONT'S BEFORE YOU VISIT CAMBODIA

DOs

1. Dress appropriately and decently, as Cambodia is a conservative country, you must not show too much skin and no showing off cleavage (for women). So make sure to cover them up with a scarf or a lace cardigan. When visiting Temples, make sure that your shoulders and knees are covered at all times. It is a must to dress appropriately as a sign of respect. 

2. Remove your footwear when entering someone's house. Whether or not your footwear is clean or dirty, you must take it off and not spill your dirt into someone else's home. Be respectful.

3. Learn some of Khmer's language. It wouldn't hurt if you try to learn a few words or short phrases such as, Hello "Chum Ree-Up Soo-A", How are you "Sok Sa Bat?", Thank you "Or-Kuhn" or Goodbye "Chum Ree-Up Lee-A". 

4. Take photographs of large bills together with the person receiving your payments. This is for your protection just in case you are being cheated.

5. Don't forget to tip the staff. Be generous to the staff serving you. Tipping the staff at least 1 US Dollar will be good enough and can make them happy.

6. Keep yourself hydrated. It is super hot in Cambodia, so it is advisable to drink plenty of water and only drink from a water bottle. Avoid getting a heatstroke.

DON'T

1. Don't exchange Dollars for Riel, as Cambodians use and they would prefer the US Dollars. Make sure that your bill is not wrinkly or have a tiny bit of ripped piece on the side as they will not accept these kinds of bills. Another tip is that when you buy something with the price of 1.50 US Dollar and you pay them with 2 US Dollars, you will get Riels for your change. Please note that 0.50 USD is equivalent to 2000 Riels. You may need to use your calculator from time to time when paying with cents.

2. Don't take pictures of monks, nun or anybody without their permission. Just think that if someone else takes pictures of you without your consent, would you like it? No, so make sure you approach them nicely and ask for permission. If they say no, please respect their privacy.

3. Don't touch anyone's head. It is considered rude or disrespectful when you reach anyone's head as Cambodians consider their head as their sacred part of their body.

4. Don't wear anything expensive and take care of your belongings. Like I mentioned earlier, Cambodia is still a developing country, and the economy is not that stable yet. Many poor people struggle to get money or even hard to get a job. So you must take care of your belongings to avoid any undesirable experience during your trip.

5. No PDA (Public Displays of Affection). Cambodians don't hug or kiss in public, so tourist shouldn't do that either. 

6. Don't drink the tap water. Bottom line, don't trust the tap water unless you boil the water. Use a water bottle to drink water instead, and the same goes for brushing your teeth.

7. Don't wear anything too revealing. Like I mentioned earlier, Cambodia is a conservative country, and no skins or cleavage are supposed to pop out in public. So cover up!

VISITING PHNOM PENH 

WHERE TO STAY IN PHNOM PENH

There are many places to stay in Phnom Penh. You may check online to see what hotel or resort is right for you and also to see if any deals or promotion is going on. You may choose to walk in, but I would highly suggest you book your hotel in advance, especially during the peak season. You may also consider trying to check AIRBNB; some of the places offer excellent deals and mostly are reliable. 

Recommendations: AIRBNB, Hotel Sofitel, InterContinental, Royal Inn Hotel, Teav Boutique Hotel, Plantation - urban Resort & Spa, Home Chic Hotel.

WHAT TO DO IN PHNOM PENH

NATIONAL MUSEUM

If you like history or would like to learn more about Cambodia's history when visiting the National Museum should be in your "To Do" list.

Entrance fee - It is around 5 USD per person.

Opening hours - It is open every day around 8:00 am-5: 00 pm.

Getting there - Taking a tuk-tuk ride or private taxi via phone app is the easiest way to get to the National Museum. 

TUOL SLENG GENOCIDE MUSUEM (S21 PRISON) & THE KILLING FIELDS AT CHEOUNG EK

Tuol Sleng can also be known as S21 Prison, which was formerly a high school. It was the secret Prison held by the Khmer Rouge in 1975-1979. There were about 20,000 people who were imprisoned there with only 12 known survivors. There are around four buildings on the premises. The Khmer Rouge had turned these four buildings as interrogation rooms, torture chambers, jail cells, torture equipment room and many more other barbaric acts. The Vietnamese army discovered it in 1979. 

Entrance fee - The fee for S21 Prison is 3 USD per person and add 3 USD for an audio guide, with different types of languages (English, Chinese, French, Spanish, Japanese, Korean, German). A tour guide is available upon request with an additional charge. 

Opening hours - It opens every day from 8:00 am to 5:00 pm.

Getting there - The easiest way to get there is by tuk-tuk or a private taxi.

Cheoung Ek was also known as The Killing Fields. After all the interrogation, beatings, manipulations and starvation, this is where victims were brought to face their cruel execution. There is an audio guide tour included, to tour you around where did all the killings happen and where are the people buried. At the end of the audio tour, The Memorial Stupa will be the last stop where the remains of the victims (The skulls) are preserved and are colour coded by genders and how and what weapon was used to execute the victims. You may pay your respect by lighting a candle or offering some flowers. 

Entrance fee - The fee for the Killing Fields is 6 USD per person with audio guide included, with different languages too.

Opening hours - It opens every day around 8:00 am to 5:00 pm.

Getting there - It is around 30-40 minutes away from S21 Prison. You may take a tuk-tuk or get a private taxi to get there.

I have written a separate, and a more detailed blog about this horrific and barbaric genocide case as this has caught my full attention. I have never heard of such a tragic event at the hands of their people.

You may find the link by clicking "The Secret Prison in Cambodia."

THE ROYAL PALACE AND SILVER PAGODA

The Royal Palace is known to be the residence of the King. Visitors are allowed to visit only the throne room, which is used for coronations and ceremonies.

The Silver Pagoda is on the south of the Royal Palace. There are around 5,000 tiles near the entrance. This place looks very luxurious as it is surrounded by silver, emeralds, marbles, baccarat- crystals, gold Buddhas and some mural paintings.

You must cover your shoulders and knees when entering the museum. 

Entrance fee - The fee for both The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda is around 6.50 USD per person, tour guide are available upon request, and there will be an extra charge for the guide.

Opening hours - It opens daily at around 8:00am to 11:00am and 2:00pm to 5:00pm. 

Getting there - The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda can be reachable by tuk-tuk or private taxi.

WAT PHNOM

Wat Phnom is a Buddhism temple in Phnom Penh. It was built in 1372, and it is the tallest religious temple in the city. Many people come to Wat Phnom to make a wish or pray for good luck, good health, good wealth, good school results or right relationship. You may try your luck and who knows your request may be granted, make sure that you bring some jasmine flowers or some bananas as an offering.

You must also cover your shoulders and knees when entering the temple.

Entrance fee - The fee for entering Wat Phnom is around 1 USD per person.

Opening hours - It is open from 8:00 am to 5:30 pm daily. 

MEKONG RIVER

Mekong river is the longest river in Southeast Asia and the 12th longest on Earth. It will be a beautiful experience to tour around the river while trying to shop for fish from the vendors along the river. 

CENTRAL MARKET

The central market is a large market in the city. Inside the market, it is filled with shops selling pieces of jewellery, gold, old and antique stuff, clothing, watches, souvenirs and many others. There are also some places to eat around the market area.

Opening hours - The market opens daily from 8:00 am to 5:30 pm.

RIVERFRONT

This riverfront is an excellent spot to catch the sunrise or sunset while you are in the city. Along the river, you may take a glimpse at the Royal Palace or take a walk in the riverside for some peace and relaxation.

Opening hours - It is open daily and at any time.

JET'S CONTAINER

If you are looking for a place to drink, some bites or some street food, then this place will be good to visit. The reason why it is called Jet’s container is that the shops are inside many containers. 

Street food at Jet's Container

AEON MALL

This is probably one of the biggest malls in Phnom Penh and is almost close to every attraction in the city. There are plenty of shops and dining places as well. There is also a fast food area on the ground floor where the supermarket is, you can try out the Pho noodles and some fresh coconut if you want to try something local. 

VISITING SIEM REAP 

WHERE TO STAY IN SIEM REAP

There are many places to stay in Siem Reap. You may check online to see what hotel or resort is right for you and also to see if any deals or promotion is going on. You may choose to walk in, but I would highly suggest you book your hotel in advance, especially during the peak season. You may also consider trying to check AIRBNB; some of the places offer an excellent deal, and most are reliable. 

Recommendations: AIRBNB, Park Hyatt, Royal Angkor Resort, The Moon Boutique Hotel, Sokha Angkor Resort, Raffles Hotel, Sarai Resort & Spa. 

WHAT TO DO IN SIEM REAP

ANGKOR NATIONAL MUSEUM

I would recommend anybody visiting Siem Reap to make the National Museum their "first to go" list. I think it is good to know the history of the Angkor before actually heading to the temple, so you could have an initial idea on what to see and what they are once you reach the temples.

There are seven gallery halls inside the National Museum, and there are many different sections. Galley A is the Khmer Civilisation, Gallery B is the Religion and Beliefs, Gallery C is the Great Khmer Kings, Gallery D is the Angkor Wat, Gallery E is the Angkor Thom, Gallery F is the Story from Stones, and Gallery G is the Ancient Costume. Inside the museum, you may also find a gallery room for all the 1,000 Buddhas. 

Please take note that taking photographs or video taken inside the gallery halls is prohibited, and you may be penalised once you are caught. However, you may take pictures and videos outside the hallways as you wish. 

Entrance fee - The fee will be 12 USD per person.

Opening hours - The museum is open from 8:00 am to 5:30 pm. 

Getting there - The easiest way to get there is by tuk-tuk, and it is convenient to hire a tuk-tuk for one day so that you can visit other attractions in Siem Reap. 

ANGKOR ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK

Angkor Archaeological Park is one of the most important archaeological sites in Southeast Asia. In 1992, Angkor declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. Most of the temples in Angkor were built in a mountain-like pyramidal shape and are surrounded by moats. There are plenty of motifs such as Apsara (Nymphs), Kala (Guards) and Naga (Serpent) as you go around your tour. To guide you as you go on your trip, you may purchase a book called "Ancient Angkor" before visiting the site if you are not hiring a tour guide (20 USD per day) or if you are interested to know more information about the temples and its symbols. 

Entrance fee - There are three types of tickets for the Angkor pass. 37 USD (for 1 day pass), 62 USD (for 3 days pass), 72 USD (for 7 days pass). Tickets must be purchased in person because a photograph of yourself must be taken on the spot. The ticket must be on your hand at all times and must be presented upon entering the temples 

Opening hours - Angkor Park is open every day from 5:00 am to 6:00 pm. 

Getting there - Option 1, hire a tuk-tuk for a one day tour in Angkor park, it usually costs around 20-25 USD, and you may add more dollars when you need the tuk-tuk driver to stay a bit longer till nightfall. The tuk-tuk driver can act as a tour guide as well. Option 2, rent a van if you want air conditioning but honestly speaking tuk-tuk will be more convenient as per what the locals have suggested. Option 3, rent an e-bike, and there is plenty of e-bike charging station around the temples. But be sure that you have installed a reliable GPS so that you won't get lost. 

DONT'S - Don't smoke around the temples. Don't throw your rubbish (water bottles, tissues, chips wrap) around the temple; keep the area clean as possible. Always cover your knee and your shoulders when entering the temples.

The best time to reach Angkor park will be around 5:00 am, so you may catch the sunrise and also some time to queue up for the tickets and for transfer to the Angkor Wat, just in time for sunrise.

Sunrise at Angkor Wat

THREE MAIN TEMPLES TO VISIT IN ANGKOR PARK:

ANGKOR WAT

Angkor Wat was built around the first half of the 12th century by King Suryavarman II. It is one of the largest temples in Angkor. It is overwhelming when exploring the temple, especially for the first time as Angkor Wat provides a magnificent view and some photographic scenery. Another attraction in Angkor Wat is to catch the sunrise and sunset. It is fantastic, trust me!

BAYON TEMPLE (ANGKOR THOM)

Bayon temple was built in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII. It was the last state temple to be built in Angkor. There are around 216 smiling stone faces that can be seen in the temple. The smiling stone faces are the representation of Avalokiteshvara, a bodhisattva who compassion in the Buddhist religion.

TA PROHM

Ta Prohm was built during the reign of King Jayavarman V!!. This temple is one of the most popular and beautiful spots in Angkor due to its beautiful combinations of wood and stone. You may catch some tree trunk around and on top of some of the temple or where some trees had been left connected and tangled along with the stonework. It looks like nature is hugging a human's handwork. 

Tomb Raider, the movie had used Ta Prohm as one of their shooting scenes in one of Angelina Jolie's action scenes in the film. 

MORE TEMPLES TO VISIT IN ANGKOR PARK:

TA KEO

Ta Keo is a large temple built by Jayavarman V. It is unfortunate that the temple has not been completed and wasn't decorated fully to how it is supposed to be. But you may still find it interesting on how it looks like now. You may take some photographs or some candid shots for your next profile picture around the site.PRE RUP TEMPLE

This temple is known for being one of the most beautiful spots for sunset in Angkor. This temple had been used to serve as a royal crematorium. It is quite a hike up to the top of the temple; it is a temple-mountain after all. Beware of what you step as the stairs are not well-balanced, but once you're up there, the view will be very breathtaking.

TA SOM

The temple was built at the end of the 12th century for King Jayavarman VII. It is a small temple in Angkor. 

NEAK PEAN

Neak Pean is not considered to be a temple site, but it can also be a new site to visit and if you are curious, of course. It has a large pond with a tower in the middle. 

PREAH KHAN

Preah Khan was built in the 12th century by Jayavarman VII. It is one of the largest temples in Angkor. There is a bridge to Preah Khan temple. While it's quite a long walk, you may take some time to appreciate nature and observe the giant trees around the way to the temple. Inside the temple, there are plenty of corridors that somehow look like you are in a maze. There are also plenty of stoneworks for you to check it out. 

PS: I got lost while trying to find the exit. What can I say? It is a maze after all. HA!

Other attractions around the temple

TONLE SAP 

Tonle Sap lake is in the south of Siem Reap town. It is around 19KM. It is a natural lake, and there are more than 200 species of water fishes and birds living in the lake. Approximately 1,115 families are living in the lake. These families live in floating houses. This area is considered to be the most impoverished area in Siem Reap, as the locals only make a small living as fishermen or fisherwomen with low income. During the rainy season, the water can rise to 1.50M of water high, which will affect the houses of families living in the lake. 

Entrance fee - The fee is 10 USD per person, and it includes a 2 hours boat ride to the floating villages. 

Getting there - Book a tour to get there for your convenience. The package is often included a roundtrip pick up and return to your hotel, food and drinks packages and boat transfers to the lake. 

DINNER AT QUEEN TARA RIVER BOAT

After visiting the Tonle Sap lake, you should also try to have your dinner at the Queen Tara's riverboat while watching the sunset. This trip will reward you with a magnificent view over the vast Tonle Sap lake. They offer delicious Khmer and western buffet with unlimited drinks, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available on board. There are some hammocks installed in the riverboat for you to enjoy and relax before heading back to your hotel.

The price for this tour is 36 USD per person, and this includes roundtrip pick-up and returns to your hotel, buffet and unlimited drinks, visit the floating villages and sunset on the riverboat.

Contact - 092-957-765 for booking / www.taraboat.com

PUB'S STREET

If you are looking for places to chill and maybe have a few shots, then Pub's street is where the party at in Siem Reap. There are quite a lot of pubs or restaurant bars for you to pick. Most of the restaurants are open since early in the morning, so you may also visit this place during the daytime. 

NIGHT MARKET

Before heading back home or leaving Siem Reap, you should find some time to visit the Night Market and buy some souvenirs, food, frames, clothes, paintings or try some street food. There are plenty of shops at the Night Market, so make sure you stroll around the place, so you can check everything. Bargaining is common there but be sure not to overdo it too much, try to be sensible too when bargaining.

ST. JOHN CATHOLIC CHURCH

St. John Church is the first Catholic Church to be established in Siem Reap. Cambodian typically prefers their sacred places to be made out of stones, just like the temples in Angkor. However, the church was built by using wooden materials, it was only intended for just a temporary church, but then the locals love it so much that they decided to stick with it. 

If you are visiting during the Holy week in Siem Reap, then you should visit the church to have your prayers. 

ANGKOR ZIPLINE

If you are looking for some adrenaline adventure, then you should try visiting the Angkor Zipline. It is the only adventure park that you can find in Siem Reap. This place does not only offers you a thrilling fun experience, but it also educates you about the species living in the rainforest and even the safety procedures.

Entrance fee - There are two types of packages. Package A costs around 99 USD, which includes 21 platforms, 3 sky bridges, 9 single ziplines, Khmer traditional set menu. Package B costs about 59 USD, which consists of 9 platforms, 2 sky bridges, 3 single ziplines, Khmer snack. Both Packages includes one double zip line, one Spiderman bridge, one abseil, Eco-Adventure tour, safety priority, and nature trail education trek. 

Contact - www.angkorzipline.com

KULEN MOUNTAIN - WATERFALL

Kulen mountain is known to be the Holy mountain in Cambodia, which has a special religious significance to Hindus and Buddhists.

The tour fee is around 35 USD per person booking through Siem Reap Shuttle, and it includes, entrance fee to Kulen mountain, roundtrip pick-up & return from the hotel, tour guide, drinking water and lunch. 

Contact - www.siemreapshuttle.com

WHERE TO EAT IN SIEM REAP

AMOK RESTAURANT

This restaurant is known to be one of the best Amok restaurants in Siem Reap. It is in Pubs's street. The dishes are delicious, and the portion is quite suitable for sharing too. I would recommend the Amok Degustation, which includes different types of meat such as, Fish Amok, Beef Amok, Chicken Amok, Pork Amok and Vegetables Amok.

Amok Restaurant in Pub's Street, try out their Amok Degustation, you won't regret it!

ARUN RESTAURANT

This restaurant is known for its homemade Khmer's cooking style. It is near the St. John Catholic Church. The Hot and Sour Soup and Chicken Amok are super delicious. The prices of the food are quite reasonable and not overpriced. 

NIGHT MARKET

There are quite a lot of different types of cuisine that you can find around the night market. If you are looking for something local, there are a lot of traditional Khmer restaurants around the area. You can find some Thai, Indian and some other western restaurants. There are also plenty of food stalls if you would like to try some of Cambodian's local street food and some fried insects.

PS: I tried eating worms for the first time! It tastes like chicken but a bit flavourless and chewy.

OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS:

Bugs Cafe, Cuisine Wat Damnak, Mie Cafe, Marun Restaurant, Khmer Grill Restaurant, The Touich Restaurant, Angkor Famous, Brick House

MORE PLACES TO VISIT IN CAMBODIA

SIHANOUKVILLE

Sihanoukville is a seaside town, and it is one of the best beaches in Cambodia. It contains a colourful yet tragic history in the past. Through this town, you may access to other beautiful beaches in Cambodia. Scuba Diving is available in Sihanoukville such as PADI centre. 

Getting there - Getting to Sihanoukville via bus from Siem Reap may take up to 12 hours (by day or overnight bus). While travelling from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville may only take around 4-5 hours trip by private taxi, which will cost about 55-60 USD. 

KOH RONG

Koh Rong is an island off the coast of Sihanoukville. There are plenty of trekking activities to do in Koh Rong and while there are other water activities for you to do such as Diving and snorkelling around the beaches. There is a lot of traditional Khmer restaurant around the island. 

Getting there - a ferry ride from Sihanoukville can reach Koh Rong. The duration of this trip can take up to 2 hours. Booking your ferry tickets in advance is optional but recommended especially during the peak season and be sure that the stopping point of the ferry will stop at your designated area in Koh Rong. The price per person will be roughly around 10-20 USD (roundtrip ticket). 

OVERALL EXPERIENCE

My Cambodia experience was great, and honestly, it is one of my best trips. I have learned so many things, and I have witnessed a different kind of vibe. I must say that Cambodian people are very humble people, and I truly appreciate their services. I will be back for sure. I hope to do a volunteer service here one day when I can.

I hope you find this blog and the information that I have provided resourceful for your trip to Cambodia or if you are planning or thinking of a trip to Cambodia. If you have any questions concerning about Cambodia, you may leave a message in the comment box. I will be more than happy to help and be useful :)

Yours Truly,

Michelle Chan